POLYNUCLEOTIDES IN SKINCARE

Dr Naomi with her polynucleotide and exosome eye cream

POLYNUCLEOTIDES: A high-precision ingredient with regenerative intelligence

Polynucleotides have emerged as a pivotal ingredient in clinical skincare, offering biologically intelligent support for dermal repair, inflammation control, and hydration restoration. 

Originally developed for tissue regeneration in medical settings, these DNA-derived fragments are now gaining strong clinical relevance in cosmetic dermatology and medical aesthetics. Their growing use in treating scarring, rosacea, photoageing, and post-procedural trauma is not based on trend, but on clear scientific and mechanistic rationale.

Rather than superficially altering skin appearance, polynucleotides promote deeper repair by interacting with the dermal matrix. 

When used correctly, they improve skin texture, calm persistent inflammation, restore hydration, and reinforce skin structure – making them one of the most sophisticated regenerative agents in high-end cosmeceuticals.

What are polynucleotides and how do they work?

Polynucleotides are purified strands of DNA, most commonly sourced from salmon or trout sperm. For Dr Naomi Skincare, asn a vegan brand, we use a PDRN ingredient from a non-animal source.

In aesthetic medicine, they are introduced into the skin either topically or via injectable delivery. Their mechanism is not genetic alteration – instead, they serve as bioactive scaffolds and messengers. Once inside the skin, they stimulate fibroblast activity, enhance collagen production, bind water molecules, and reduce oxidative stress.

This unique multi-modal activity supports repair across several pathways. As outlined in a recent review by Cerrano et al. (2025), polynucleotides bridge biological regeneration and dermatologic repair. The paper highlights their ability to promote tissue healing, remodel damaged extracellular matrix components, and stabilise the skin barrier – without immunogenic reaction or irritation 

Which skin concerns can benefit from polynucleotides?

Polynucleotides are ideal for skin that is inflamed, weakened, or structurally compromised as with aging skin. Their role in treating functional skin concerns is well-documented in both clinical trials and real-world observational studies.

Rosacea and persistent redness

In a recent survey involving over 550 cosmetic physicians, 80% confirmed that polynucleotides were effective in reducing facial erythema and reactive skin responses. Over 90% also reported benefits in improving barrier integrity and hydration in rosacea-prone skin  Lee et al., 2023

Postsurgical and atrophic scarring

In a 2025 study focused on scar revision, five sessions of intradermal PN-HPT® injections produced marked reductions in atrophic scar severity. Patients experienced improved skin texture, reduced scar visibility, and higher dermal pliability, with noticeable results sustained beyond 3 months (Araco et al., 2025

Ageing, dehydration, and dermal thinning 

Clinical research on injections in ageing skin demonstrated improved skin brightness, elasticity, and hydration across multiple facial zones. This included reductions in superficial wrinkles and better dermal tone, particularly in photodamaged or mature skin types (Lim et al., 202, 

Post-procedure recovery 

When applied after fractional resurfacing or RF microneedling, polynucleotides have been shown to accelerate re-epithelialisation and reduce procedural downtime. Their anti-inflammatory and hydrating properties help stabilise skin function during the acute healing phase, offering support without occlusion or interference.

Inflamed or barrier-impaired skin

Topical polynucleotide treatments have demonstrated reduced sensitivity and improved recovery in patients with mild chronic skin conditions, where inflammation and microtrauma coexist. Their ability to restore balance without sensitisation makes them suitable for integration into calming or recovery protocols (Lee et al., 2024, https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/25/15/8224).

What is the scientific consensus?

Across both experimental and real-world studies, polynucleotides have demonstrated safety and efficacy in applications involving dermal repair, inflammation control, and structural recovery. The literature consistently reports improvement in skin elasticity, hydration, and tone – with a low incidence of adverse events or intolerance.

In the 2024 review by Lee et al., practitioners rated polynucleotide injectables highly for their use in treating ageing skin, erythema, and dermal atrophy (). 

These findings were supported by a separate clinical study by Lim et al. (2024), who confirmed visible improved elasticity and structural density in both preventative and corrective facial aesthetic plans (https://www.dovepress.com/polynucleotides-hpt-for-asian-skin-regeneration-and-rejuvenation-peer-reviewed-fulltext-article-CCID).

How are polynucleotides used in practice?

Topically, in cosmeceuticals, polynucleotides are delivered in serums, masks, or ampoules, typically applied to clean skin before heavier occlusive products. They work synergistically with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and peptides, and are generally used twice daily in recovery or barrier-focused protocols.

Injectable wise, by Dermal injection, using papular or linear threading techniques are typically performed in sessions spaced 2–4 weeks apart. A full course often includes three to five treatments, with quarterly maintenance. Injections are especially effective in scar revision and skin firmness applications (Araco et al., 2025,).

Post-treatment integration is seeing polynucleotide creams, gels or solutions applied after RF microneedling, thermal-based devices, or laser treatments. These applications help reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), calm irritation, and promote consistent dermal repair without obstructing cellular turnover.

Safety, contraindications, and clinical considerations

Polynucleotides are well tolerated and considered safe across skin types. 

• However, caution should be applied in patients with known fish allergies, as most formulations are marine-derived. 

• Their injectable use during pregnancy or lactation is not recommended due to the absence of clinical safety data. 

• Application to active infections or open wounds should be avoided.

As with any bioactive molecule, use should be directed by a trained clinical professional, particularly when integrated into injectable or post-procedure protocols. Skin integrity, timing, and product purity all contribute to therapeutic success.

Regeneration without disruption

Polynucleotides are not traditional actives – they are biomolecular catalysts for regeneration. They do not deliver cosmetic camouflage, but rather biological optimisation. Their value lies in how they support intrinsic tissue repair across multiple skin layers, aligning with the skin’s native healing mechanisms rather than working against them.

For high-end skincare consumers and patients seeking evidence-led repair – not surface-level solutions – polynucleotides offer a clinically credible approach to skin healing, inflammation management, and structural renewal. Their position in the future of regenerative skincare is not speculative – it’s substantiated.

References

Cerrano, M., Hadjab, F., Chemali, M. et al. (2025). From Polydeoxyribonucleotides (PDRNs) to Polynucleotides (PNs): Bridging the Gap Between Scientific Definitions, Molecular Insights, and Clinical Applications of Multifunctional Biomolecules. Biomolecules, 15(1), 148. https://www.mdpi.com/2218-273X/15/1/148

Lee, K.W.A., Lee, A., Lee, C.H. et al. (2024). Polynucleotides in Aesthetic Medicine: A Review of Current Practices and Perceived Effectiveness. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 25(15), 8224. Available at: https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/25/15/8224

Lim, T.S., Liew, S., Tee, X.J. et al. (2024). Polynucleotides HPT™ for Asian Skin Regeneration and Rejuvenation – The Tridimensional Perspective. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 17, 417–431. https://www.dovepress.com/polynucleotides-hpt-for-asian-skin-regeneration-and-rejuvenation-peer-reviewed-fulltext-article-CCID

Lee, D., Kim, M.J., Park, H.J. et al. (2023). Current Practices and Perceived Effectiveness of Polynucleotides for Treatment of Facial Erythema by Cosmetic Physicians. Skin Research and Technology, 29(9), e13466. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/srt.13466

Araco, A., Araco, F. & Raichi, M. (2025). An Exploratory Study of PN-HPT® for Treating Postsurgical Atrophic and Depressed Scars. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 24(1), e16764. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.16764